I’ve been asked a few times for
advice on what you need to get started in woodworking. That is a
really complicated question with no truly right answers. I know this
sounds like I’m dodging the question, but I’m not. How you go
about setting up your shop and what tools you buy really
depends upon what aspect of woodworking you’re interested in
exploring. The set up for woodturning is much different from carving.
That said, let’s start with assuming you want to start with a
general woodworking shop. There are a lot of tools that will be
applicable with most shops.
For this installment I’ll just
address the key tool for many shops: the Table Saw.
Let me first talk about safety. All
table saws come with safety devices; blade guards, splitters/riving
knife, etc. Regardless of all the safety features installed at the
factory, the biggest safety feature is you. I will have an blog that deals specifically with table saw safety in the near
future. In the mean time, please use the safety features that come
with your saw, wear eye protection and use common sense. If something
doesn’t feel safe, don’t do it. Ask for help or advice.
Table saws fall into 3 categories: Job Site Saws, Contractor’s Saws and Cabinet Saws. Each comes in at a
different price range, size and capabilities. Keep in mind as you
shop around that you do get what you pay for in tools. The cheapest
tools do not always have the best quality control or accuracy.
The first category is the Job Site Saw.
These are small table saws with direct drive motors. Some come with
foldable stands to make it easier to move from site to site. These
will range in price from $100 to $600 or more. These saws come with
light weight guide fences and small miter gauges. Since these saws
have the blade directly attached to the motor, that may increase the
wear if you cut thick, heavy hardwoods. These saws are good if you
have limited space or budget.
The second category is Contractor style
saws. The most notable feature is that the motor typically hangs out
the back of the saw with a single belt running to an arbor attached
to the underside of the cast iron table and fixed open frame legs.
They motors are typically 1 ½ hp running on 110v. These saws are
heavier due to the larger cast iron tops. These saws can handle
heavier wood, have professional “Bessemer” style of guide fence
and removable inserts around the blade. Users can upgrade these saws
with zero clearance inserts and dado sets to cut grooves and dados.
It is difficult to control the dust from these saws so that is a
drawback. They are typically the saw most contractors start out with
in their shops.
The last category is the Cabinet saw.
This is the type of saw I use in my shop. These have and enclosed
base and heavier duty motor typically running on 220v. There are some
that are labeled as Hybrid, they have the enclosed base but the motor
of a contractor saw usually 1 ½ hp. They are the heaviest of the
three styles which helps dampen vibrations and gives you a better
quality cut. They also have better dust collection and are typically
easier to adjust. They tend to be the most durable of the saws, with
many lasting decades. Due to the weight, they are usually not moved
around the shop but mobile bases are available either as a feature or
as an aftermarket add on. They all have heavy duty guide fences and
better miter gauges. Most users of these saws will buy aftermarket
miter gauges to improve accuracy.
There are a lot of saws on the market,
from Christmas specials for about $100 to heavy duty professional
models that will run into the thousands of dollars. There are several
options out there, from used saws listed in the local paper or online
sites like Craigslist. I strongly urge caution when buying a used
saw. Make sure that all of the safety equipment comes with the saw
and if at all possible ask to see it run. If the top is rusted, you
will need to spend a good deal of time cleaning it off to be able to
use the saw safely.
My personal recommendation is that you
decide what you want to do in your shop, how much space you can
dedicate to your tools and your budget. If you have limited space
like a small garage, a job site or contractor style saw will fit your
needs. If you have a dedicated area and can leave a tool in the same
place, consider a cabinet saw. Either way, buy the best tool you can
afford and avoid poor quality or abused tools. Poor quality tools
only cost you more money in the long run either in replacing them or
in injury.
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